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2026 Jeep Cherokee
The verdict
Several concerns worth a close look before buying.
Cons
Official recall campaigns exist for this vehicle. See the Safety Recalls section for what failed and how it's fixed.
Why we say this — NHTSA — Safety Recalls
4 of 9 owner complaints are about the fuel/propulsion system. Tap it in the heatmap to read the real reports.
Why we say this — NHTSA — Owner Complaints
Pros
Nothing in this category from the official data.
Neutral
The government hasn't published a crash-test rating for this exact vehicle. We won't invent one.
Why we say this — NHTSA — 5-Star Safety Ratings
Official EPA fuel economy. We show this as a neutral fact — whether it's 'good' depends on the vehicle's class.
Why we say this — U.S. EPA / DOE — fueleconomy.gov
Take this with you:
—Crash-test safety
0Safety recalls
0Owner complaints
0% involved a crash or fire
37Combined MPG
ℹ️ Recalls & complaints are reported per model — the same across every trim & engine. Fuel economy (and crash ratings by body style) can vary — use the pickers in those sections.
Safety Recalls
Official recall campaigns. Tap one to see the danger and the fix.
What is a recall, really?
A recall means the government made the manufacturer admit a safety defect — and the fix is free at any dealer, forever, even for used cars. Recalls range from a software update to "the steering wheel can detach," so read the danger line on each one. Buying used? Ask the seller for proof each recall was completed, or have a dealer run the VIN. Recalls also have a quieter cousin worth reading: technical service bulletins.
NHTSA Campaign 26V059000
What's wrong: Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2024-2026 Jeep Wagoneer S, 2025-2026 Ram 1500 Pickup, Ram 2500 Pickup, Ram 3500 Pickup, Ram 3500 Cab Chassis, Ram 4500 Cab Chassis, Ram 5500 Cab Chassis, and 2026 Jeep Cherokee vehicles. Due to an improperly designed trailer tow module, the trailer lights may fail to illuminate and the trailer brakes may fail.
The danger: Trailer brake lights and turn signals that do not illuminate reduce visibility to other drivers, increasing the risk of a crash. Additionally, trailer brakes that fail increase the risk of a crash.
The fix: Dealers will replace the trailer tow module, free of charge. Owner notification letters were mailed beginning March 17, 2026. Owners may contact FCA US, LLC customer service at 1-800-853-1403. FCA US, LLC's number for this recall is 03D. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall became searchable on NHTSA.gov on February 10, 2026.
NHTSA Campaign 26V223000
What's wrong: Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2026 Jeep Cherokee vehicles. The brake system control module may fail to operate properly, which can cause a loss of anti-lock brakes (ABS) and electronic stability control (ESC).
The danger: A loss of anti-lock brakes or electronic stability control increases the risk of a crash.
The fix: Dealers will update the brake system control module software, free of charge. Owner notification letters were mailed April 28, 2026. Owners may contact FCA customer service at 1-800-853-1403. FCA's number for this recall is 29D. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will become searchable on NHTSA.gov beginning April 16, 2026.
NHTSA Campaign 26V531000
What's wrong: Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2026 Jeep Wrangler, Jeep Gladiator, Jeep Compass, Jeep Cherokee, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Grand Cherokee L, Jeep Grand Wagoneer, Jeep Grand Wagoneer L, Ram Promaster, Ram Promaster EV, Ram 1500, Ram 2500, Chrysler Pacifica Plug-In Hybrid, Chrysler Voyager, and 2026-2027 Chrysler Pacifica and Dodge Charger vehicles. The rearview camera image may fail to display when the vehicle is placed in reverse. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 111, "Rear Visibility."
The danger: A rearview camera image that fails to display reduces the driver's view behind the vehicle, increasing the risk of a crash.
The fix: Radio software will be updated by a dealer or through an over-the-air (OTA) update, free of charge. Owner notification letters were mailed beginning September 2, 2026. Owners may contact Chrysler customer service at 800-853-1403. Chrysler's number for this recall is 78D. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will be searchable on NHTSA.gov on August 20, 2026.
NHTSA Campaign 26V559000
What's wrong: Chrysler (FCA US LLC) is recalling certain 2024-2025 Jeep Wagoneer, 2024-2026 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Grand Cherokee L, Jeep Grand Cherokee 4XE, Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 2025 Jeep Wagoneer L, 2025-2026 Jeep Grand Wagoneer L, and 2026 Jeep Cherokee vehicles. Due to a software error, the tire pressure monitoring system may fail to detect low tire pressure and/or fail to illuminate the tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) warning light as intended. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 138, "Tire Pressure Monitoring System."
The danger: A TPMS warning light that fails to notify the driver of low tire pressure increases the risk of a crash.
The fix: Dealers will update the radio frequency hub software, free of charge. Owner notification letters were mailed beginning September 17, 2026. Owners may contact FCA US, LLC customer service at 1-800-853-1403. FCA US, LLC's number for this recall is 54D. Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) involved in this recall will become searchable on NHTSA.gov on September 9, 2026.
Source: NHTSA — Safety Recalls · re-checked about every 24 hours
Where Owners Report Problems
Where owners report the most trouble — based on 9 complaints. Tap a part to read the real reports.
Raw count — best-sellers naturally log more complaints than rare cars, so judge it against the peer comparison below, not on its own.
Why don't we show complaints per vehicle sold?
Because no official source publishes sales counts per model — that data is sold by private firms, and the free numbers online are guesses. A rate built on a guessed denominator is a guess wearing a lab coat, so we refuse to show one. Instead we show comparisons where fleet size cancels out or is disclosed: the same model across its own years, the crash/fire severity mix, and the peer ranking below — each with its methodology attached.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 4 of 4):
While driving my vehicle, the check engine light came on after driving for about 10 minutes. It remained on and I called the dealer and they said that I should bring the vehicle in to be checked. They looked at the check engine light and said it was probably because the gas cap was not on properly. I do not have a gas cap so the turned it off and said I should be ok. It came on again and they said they would have it checked further. After further investigation the discovered a loose flap associated with the cruise control and adjusted the flap. I was told if it came on again it would need to be replaced. The light came on again and I took the vehicle in to have it replaced. It has not yet been repaired. The engine light comes on and even goes out while driving.Generally the light will come on and stay on for a few days and go off but it happens and I have not had one vehicle for more than a few months. I believe another problem is being generated from this because now I am having problems with the vehicle jerking because the vale has not been replaced.
When i pulled into my garage the fuel gauge read 20 miles remaining and the needle was still in the yellow. The next morning when I got in my car it wouldn't start. Out of gas. Upon putting in a gallon of gas, the vehicle started and the gauge read "low". This is the second time this has happened. The first time the car was in motion on a busy street. This is a major safety issue.
I was driving on a busy street. The fuel gauge said I had 10-12 miles of range left before I was out of fuel. 2 miles later, at a major intersection, my car stalled in middle of the intersection. A kind stranger help me push it off of the road. I could have been hit by a car. This is a major safety issue. This is the first of two times this has happened since August.
Car gave message stating only 30 miles (or maybe 40?) before empty, but then went empty in only approximately 5 miles. Message before it completely died stated to pull over but car died before that point. After putting in about 1/2 gallon, car took repeated (7 or 8) start attempts before gas got to injectors to start. When filled up, gas receipt showed only 12 gallons could be put in before gas pump shut off. I believe the incorrect mileage warning, and abrupt stop, misleads the driver and may cause an accident.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 3 of 3):
On October 1, 2026, at approximately 1,968 miles, my 2026 Jeep Cherokee experienced a serious powertrain failure. I began driving home from work and the vehicle initially moved without severe shaking. While traveling on the highway at approximately 70 mph and then accelerating uphill, the vehicle progressively lost power and began shuddering violently. The check-engine light began flashing while the red Electronic Throttle Control warning remained on screen. The vehicle appeared to enter a limp mode and I had significant difficulty maintaining speed and climbing the hill. A highway patrol officer followed me with his lights and siren and with his escort I was able to safely reach the next highway exit, but I was concerned that the sudden loss of acceleration could have resulted in a crash, particularly in highway traffic. The dealership performed a diagnostic scan after arrival and the service advisor told me the vehicle had multiple pending faults involving the electronic throttle body, engine misfires, fuel mixture, and other engine-management systems. The dealership has continued testing the vehicle and I was subsequently advised that testing showed severe internal engine damage affecting three of the four cylinders, described to me as three cylinders having “a hole,” and that a replacement engine may be required. The technician is consulting Jeep/Stellantis regarding additional testing, possible teardown, and repair authorization. The exact internal component that failed and the root cause are still being determined. My concern is the sudden loss of power at highway speeds, violent engine shuddering, and malfunction errors on a new vehicle under 2000 miles.
Complete turbo failure at 5000 miles including the turbo actuator.
I had pulled the vehicle into my garage. When I tried to shut the car off the car it would not shut off. In fact many components of the car seem to be completely out of sync. The car would not go into any gear. I could not shut the car off. No matter what I did the car just kept running. I finally more or less gave up and just let it keep running for a couple of hours. When I went back into the garage to check what was happening the car had finally stopped running. At that point I had call a towing service and arranged to have the vehicle taken to Autonation Jeep Chrysler the next morning where I had purchased the vehicle. This was a newly purchased vehicle and only had a total of 78 miles on it. Surprisingly the next morning I went into the garage to check on what was happening with the vehicle and to my surprise the vehicle had stopped running. I then disconnected The 12 Volt battery and left it disconnected for an hour or two. After this time I reconnected the battery. I again attempted to start the vehicle and surprisingly the vehicle started up and all functions in the car seem to be performing normally. At this point I drove the car about a mile to the Autonation Jeep Chrysler dealership and had conversation with service technician. Surprisingly he told me that Jeep has had this problem with other vehicles and the solution is to disconnect the 12 Volt battery for 20 or 30 minutes and then reconnect the battery. At that point the car seems to reset itself and it will run normally. End This car of mine only had 78 miles on it This is totally unacceptable. Furthermore this seems to be a problem with other Jeep vehicles. It is my opinion that Jeep Needs to correct this problem so I will not be stuck with a car that's running in my garage and I can't shut it off. All in all it seems to me this is a software problem that needs to be reworked and corrected.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 2 of 2):
While driving my vehicle, the check engine light came on after driving for about 10 minutes. It remained on and I called the dealer and they said that I should bring the vehicle in to be checked. They looked at the check engine light and said it was probably because the gas cap was not on properly. I do not have a gas cap so the turned it off and said I should be ok. It came on again and they said they would have it checked further. After further investigation the discovered a loose flap associated with the cruise control and adjusted the flap. I was told if it came on again it would need to be replaced. The light came on again and I took the vehicle in to have it replaced. It has not yet been repaired. The engine light comes on and even goes out while driving.Generally the light will come on and stay on for a few days and go off but it happens and I have not had one vehicle for more than a few months. I believe another problem is being generated from this because now I am having problems with the vehicle jerking because the vale has not been replaced.
I had pulled the vehicle into my garage. When I tried to shut the car off the car it would not shut off. In fact many components of the car seem to be completely out of sync. The car would not go into any gear. I could not shut the car off. No matter what I did the car just kept running. I finally more or less gave up and just let it keep running for a couple of hours. When I went back into the garage to check what was happening the car had finally stopped running. At that point I had call a towing service and arranged to have the vehicle taken to Autonation Jeep Chrysler the next morning where I had purchased the vehicle. This was a newly purchased vehicle and only had a total of 78 miles on it. Surprisingly the next morning I went into the garage to check on what was happening with the vehicle and to my surprise the vehicle had stopped running. I then disconnected The 12 Volt battery and left it disconnected for an hour or two. After this time I reconnected the battery. I again attempted to start the vehicle and surprisingly the vehicle started up and all functions in the car seem to be performing normally. At this point I drove the car about a mile to the Autonation Jeep Chrysler dealership and had conversation with service technician. Surprisingly he told me that Jeep has had this problem with other vehicles and the solution is to disconnect the 12 Volt battery for 20 or 30 minutes and then reconnect the battery. At that point the car seems to reset itself and it will run normally. End This car of mine only had 78 miles on it This is totally unacceptable. Furthermore this seems to be a problem with other Jeep vehicles. It is my opinion that Jeep Needs to correct this problem so I will not be stuck with a car that's running in my garage and I can't shut it off. All in all it seems to me this is a software problem that needs to be reworked and corrected.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 2 of 2):
Intermittent grinding noise that lasts from 1 to 20 seconds that I believe is related to Traction Control / ASC which is concerning.It happens more frequently when turning the traction /asc button on & off. I have taken it to the jeep dealer & showed them a video of it happening but they said they could recreate the noise. It happens to me multiple times EVERY day. I wanted to send you a video of it happening that I have of it on my IPhone but don’t seem to be able to do it online. I can send by email or phone message if you would like to see it.
I had pulled the vehicle into my garage. When I tried to shut the car off the car it would not shut off. In fact many components of the car seem to be completely out of sync. The car would not go into any gear. I could not shut the car off. No matter what I did the car just kept running. I finally more or less gave up and just let it keep running for a couple of hours. When I went back into the garage to check what was happening the car had finally stopped running. At that point I had call a towing service and arranged to have the vehicle taken to Autonation Jeep Chrysler the next morning where I had purchased the vehicle. This was a newly purchased vehicle and only had a total of 78 miles on it. Surprisingly the next morning I went into the garage to check on what was happening with the vehicle and to my surprise the vehicle had stopped running. I then disconnected The 12 Volt battery and left it disconnected for an hour or two. After this time I reconnected the battery. I again attempted to start the vehicle and surprisingly the vehicle started up and all functions in the car seem to be performing normally. At this point I drove the car about a mile to the Autonation Jeep Chrysler dealership and had conversation with service technician. Surprisingly he told me that Jeep has had this problem with other vehicles and the solution is to disconnect the 12 Volt battery for 20 or 30 minutes and then reconnect the battery. At that point the car seems to reset itself and it will run normally. End This car of mine only had 78 miles on it This is totally unacceptable. Furthermore this seems to be a problem with other Jeep vehicles. It is my opinion that Jeep Needs to correct this problem so I will not be stuck with a car that's running in my garage and I can't shut it off. All in all it seems to me this is a software problem that needs to be reworked and corrected.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 1 of 1):
While driving my vehicle, the check engine light came on after driving for about 10 minutes. It remained on and I called the dealer and they said that I should bring the vehicle in to be checked. They looked at the check engine light and said it was probably because the gas cap was not on properly. I do not have a gas cap so the turned it off and said I should be ok. It came on again and they said they would have it checked further. After further investigation the discovered a loose flap associated with the cruise control and adjusted the flap. I was told if it came on again it would need to be replaced. The light came on again and I took the vehicle in to have it replaced. It has not yet been repaired. The engine light comes on and even goes out while driving.Generally the light will come on and stay on for a few days and go off but it happens and I have not had one vehicle for more than a few months. I believe another problem is being generated from this because now I am having problems with the vehicle jerking because the vale has not been replaced.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 1 of 1):
I was driving the vehicle in heavy traffic, at the speed of 1-3 mph, then stopped at a stoplight, when the hood latch spontaneously disengaged, allowing the hood to pop open. There was seemingly no reason this should have happened. I was traveling on smooth pavement and didn’t hit a bump or anything else that would have jarred the hood latch. I was also nowhere near the hood release button, as both of my hands were on the steering wheel, and there was nothing else that could have accidentally triggered the button while the vehicle was in motion. While the vehicle’s safety system alerted me to the hood opening, it automatically limited the vehicle’s speed to about 1 mph, which nearly prevented me from being able to proceed to a safe spot to pull over and correct the hood issue as vehicles around me began to accelerate once a stoplight turned green.
Real owner reports filed with NHTSA (showing 1 of 1):
I was driving on a busy street. The fuel gauge said I had 10-12 miles of range left before I was out of fuel. 2 miles later, at a major intersection, my car stalled in middle of the intersection. A kind stranger help me push it off of the road. I could have been hit by a car. This is a major safety issue. This is the first of two times this has happened since August.
Many crash/fire reportsSome crash/fire reportsNo crash/fire in reports
Color = how serious (crash/fire involvement) · number = how many (share of all this car's reports). Tap any part to read real owner complaints.
Source: NHTSA — Owner Complaints · re-checked about every 24 hours
Crash-Test Safety Ratings
Official U.S. government 5-star crash-test results.
How to read these stars
These come from the government physically crash-testing this vehicle — front, side, and rollover — and scoring it 1 to 5 stars. Ratings are per body style, so a sedan and its coupe twin can differ. If a vehicle shows no rating, it usually means the government never tested that exact configuration — untested is not the same as unsafe, and we'll never blur that line.
Source: NHTSA — 5-Star Safety Ratings · re-checked about every 24 hours
Fuel Economy (MPG)
Official EPA estimates — the real numbers, not the brochure.
37Combined MPG
39City MPG
35Highway MPG
$1,750Est. fuel cost / yr
Across 1 official EPA configuration · Fuel: Regular. Pick an engine/trim above for exact numbers.
Source: U.S. EPA / DOE — fueleconomy.gov · re-checked about every 24 hours