🔍 Inspection plan
2025 International MV — what to check before you pay, built from this car's own records. Print it and bring it.
1️⃣ Run the VIN — it's free
This model has 10 recall campaigns. Recall repairs are FREE at any dealer, forever — the question is whether THIS car already got them.
- Get the 17-character VIN from the listing, windshield corner, or driver's door jamb.
- Paste it into the government's own free checker: nhtsa.gov/recalls — it shows recalls still open on that exact car.
- Ask the seller for proof these campaigns were completed: 24V088000, 24V164000, 24V462000, 24V556000, 24V818000, 25V178000 (+4 more — see the report). If any are open, the dealer fixes them free — factor the trip into your negotiation.
Why don't we run the VIN for you?
The government protects its VIN checker with a human-verification step, so no website can honestly automate it — including us. Some sites charge a fee to do this lookup; the data is free and takes 30 seconds. We'd rather teach you the free door than charge you to walk through it.
Source: NHTSA — Safety Recalls · re-checked about every 24 hours
2️⃣ Check what actually fails on this model
Generated from 2 owner reports filed with the government about this exact year/make/model — most-reported areas first.
1. Steering1 owner reports
Look: With the car on, turn the wheel lock-to-lock while parked — listen for whines, clunks, or grinding. Check power-steering fluid if the car has a reservoir.
On the drive: On a straight, flat road, loosen your grip briefly — the car should track straight. Feel for shake in the wheel at highway speed, wandering, or play (wheel moves before the car responds).
Read the real reports in the complaints section.
2. Suspension1 owner reports
Look: Press down hard on each corner of the car — it should bounce once and settle. Uneven tire wear (feel the tread edges) often means worn suspension or alignment problems.
On the drive: Drive over a speed bump slowly and some rough road: clunks from the front usually mean sway-bar links or strut mounts. Listen for creaks in slow, tight turns.
Read the real reports in the complaints section.
3. Power Train1 owner reports
Look: Check transmission fluid if there's a dipstick — brown, burnt-smelling, or gritty fluid means trouble. Look for leaks where the car is usually parked.
On the drive: Drive through all speeds: shifts should be smooth and quick. Flare (revving without speeding up), clunks between gears, shudder at low speed, or delayed engagement from Park are all walk-away-and-ask signs.
Read the real reports in the complaints section.
4. Engine1 owner reports
Look: Pull the oil dipstick — low or dirty oil between changes is the classic warning. Look under the car for fresh drips and at the exhaust for blue/white smoke at startup. Ask for oil-change receipts.
On the drive: Start it COLD (after sitting overnight — ask the seller not to warm it up). Listen to the first 5 seconds for rattles or knocking, watch for warning lights, and check for hesitation or smoke under hard acceleration.
Read the real reports in the complaints section.
Source: NHTSA — Owner Complaints · re-checked about every 24 hours
3️⃣ Standard practice for any used car
Not model-specific — just the checks every used-car buyer should run.
- Work through our 11-point pre-purchase checklist (saves your progress on your device).
- Pay a mechanic ~$100–$200 for an independent pre-purchase inspection on a lift. On a used car it's the best-value insurance there is — and this page tells them where to look first.
- Match the VIN on the windshield, door jamb, and title. Mismatch = walk away.
- Check the title status (salvage/rebuilt/flood brands) and consider a vehicle history report for accident and odometer records.
This plan is generated from public government records and general inspection practice. It is not a substitute for a professional inspection — it's the map that makes one better.